Car Nitrous Kits

Are you curious about what a nitrous system can do for your performance?

Are you unsure about taking the conventional tuning route, which can be blighted with problems, for a modest improvement?

Or maybe you’ve already taken that route and still need more power in reserve but you’re concerned about the scare stories you’ve heard about nitrous use.

Whatever the case a WON Street-Blaster nitrous system is the answer, because unlike other inferior brands (which are solely responsible for the bad reputation nitrous use has had), all our systems use the same ultra high quality components, that have been specifically designed in-house to deliver unparalleled reliability with outstanding performance.

Furthermore, all WON systems benefit from numerous unique features as standard equipment, which offer substantial advantages over all other brands.

Features;

• Crossfire injector.
• Billet alloy Pulsoids.
• Micro bore nylon hose for maximum efficiency.
• EU specification nitrous bottle with FlowMax valve & SPRV.
• Laserlite QD nitrous bottle mounting system.
• Lifetime guarantee.

At WON we appreciate your pride in your car and we are aware of how valuable your engine could be and as a consequence we only manufacture the highest quality components, which we've specifically designed to produce the best and safest results. The outstanding quality of our Pulsoids (solenoids) is a prime example of our dedication to provide safe and efficient nitrous components. Our Pulsoids are the best solenoids in the world and the proof is here; Click for Solenoid Comparison Image

You and your car deserve the best and the best nitrous system is Wizards of NOS

A WON system would suit your requirements if;

• You’re satisfied with your car's performance most of the time, but occasionally need an extra boost on the road or race track.
• You want the option of improved performance at the flick of a switch.
• You want to improve your cars acceleration and improve your 0-60 time and/or ¼ mile time.
• You’d like extra power that you can easily and precisely control (with the aid of a progressive controller).
• You want a system that you can easily install with excellent after-sale support should you need it.
• You'd like a specifically designed, purpose built, high quality nitrous system.
• You want the most advanced nitrous technology, which delivers superior reliability and more performance from every bottle of nitrous than any other make of kit.
• You want peace of mind that you're getting the best advice to optimise your results.
• You demand minimal risk of engine related issues and don’t want to sacrifice the longevity of your engine for power.
• You don't want to sacrifice fuel economy for power, except when the system is activated.
• You want a system designed to your specifications that delivers high power gains for race applications.

Automotive history: Chevrolet Bel Air

I was one of the "lucky owners" of a 1957 Chevy Bel Air.

The year was 1965, I had been driving around in a '52 DeSoto...sort of an "icky" green tank-shaped monster of a car! I was a mere 17; what was I doing driving around in such an "uncool" road hog? Don't get me wrong...that car was solid and very dependable! It just didn't have "cool" written anywhere upon it!

Then one day I saw the '57 Bel Air, 2-door "sedan" (with "post" between front & back windows-the "coupes" had no post) for sale at a local garage/dealer. Somehow, I immediately fell in love. I bought the car, though I can't recall how much I paid, and I guess that doesn't much matter. What matters is what this car was to me. How it immediately upped my "cool" status and boosted my confidence level up a couple notches. Here I was, cruising along in what someday, perhaps 25 or so years later, would become a most sought-after classic Chevrolet! Little did I know how truly beautiful this car was. Oh, I truly appreciated owning it, and I loved it dearly. But, I had no idea it would become such an icon and even a "hero" to so many. Guess that's how it goes, huh? When things are all around us, we don't appreciate them. It's when they disappear that we want them back again.

The world was somehow "simpler" then...at least I think it was. The '57 Chevy was quite 'simple', too, as I recall. Not too many "bells & whistles"; no a/c, just am radio, ride was pretty good, though a little stiff, as I recollect. But that stuff wasn't so important then, either.

Yeah...life WAS simpler then! Hmmmmmmmmmm.....anyone know where I can pick up a nice '57 Chevy Bel Air these days?

Before you modify your vehicle

Print versi

on: Before you modify your vehicle (PDF, 82 KB, 2 pages)

If you are thi

n

king about

modifying, customising or re-tuning your car, do it properly – it might cost you a bit extra, but if you don't do it the right way it could cost you your life.

Your modi

f

ication might need Low Volume Vehicle (LVV) certification.

If the mo

dification you want requires LVV certification, start with the experts.

• Discus
  s the modification with someone who has already successfully completed such a modification.
• Check the technical standards information on the Low Volume Vehicle Technical Association's (LVVTA) website and find out what is required to ensure your vehicle remains safe.
• Contact your local LVV certifier – a list of LVV certifiers can be found at www.lvvta.org.nz.

Take special care with . . .

• Modified suspensions, which could alter the handling characteristics of your vehicle. If the modification exceeds a specified threshold, the vehicle must be checked by an LVV certifier. To find the threshold look on the LVVTA’s infosheet on modification thresholds (PDF on the LVVTA's website).
• Some engine conversions or engine modifications which could result in the braking system being inadequate for the performance potential of your car. An LVV certifier will ensure that your braking system remains safe.
• A racing seat, which can provide you with better support, but if it is incorrectly attached and positioned in the vehicle, it can adversely affect the way that your seatbelt protects you in a crash.
• Steering modifications, which should be done only by experts. The inherent dangers in modifying steering systems mean it is essential that you get a LVV certifier to check these.

What you must do

• Before modifying your vehicle, be sure that it will remain safe.
• Check if the modification requires LVV certification. Some modifications will be covered by WoF inspection requirements but others will need to be certified by an LVV certifier.
• Talk to a WoF inspector about the limits set out in their Vehicle inspection requirements manual, or talk to an LVV certifier, or read the infosheet on modification thresholds (PDF on the LVVTA's website).

A heavily modified vehicle must have an LVV certification plate

• 
  You must get an LVV certification before you can get a WoF. LVV certification can cost between $250 and $800 depending on the extent of the modification.
• The LVV certifier arranges to get a plate for your modified vehicle. You must go back to the certifier who will fit the plate to a permanent part of the vehicle body. You must have the LVV plate fitted within two months from the time of the vehicle’s certification inspection. If you do not get the plate, the vehicle is not certified. This means your vehicle is not legal.
• You may need to get a new LVV certification for any subsequent modifications. Keep your LVV certification up to date.

Why are modifications checked?

The rules about modifications were made to ensure that you and your passengers are in safe vehicles. Without LVV certification, you could be putting your own and other road users lives at risk. For example, if you modify your steering or suspension, you could alter the way your vehicle handles. This could cause you to lose control of your vehicle when you need it most, killing you and your passengers.

QuickTips Index

A Third Hand For Wrenching
Haven't you even needed a third hand? Here's a tip that can help you out of some tight auto repair situations.

Used Auto Parts: Good Idea?
When is it ok to buy used auto parts for auto maintenance or repair? That's a good question. Used auto parts can save you lots of money, but choose carefully or you might be doing the same repair twice.

Cure For Sudden Poor Radio Reception
If you suddenly find that your car radio is giving you more fizz and pop than music and news, there might be a simple solution to your woes. For most of us, the car stereo is the peacekeeper of the interior of the car.

A Little Help to Loosen a Tight Bolt or Lug Nut
If you're in the middle (or beginning) of an auto repair project and find a stuck bolt, you may need a third hand to loosen it. Breaking a bolt or nut, such as a lug nut, can be easier if your third hand has some extra leverage. Great tip for wheel hubs, bearings or brakes.

Check Your Car Tire Wear
It's important to keep up with your car tire wear. Worn car tires can be very dangerous. The penny test is as old as car tires themselves, but it still works!

My Car Key Won't Turn!
Ever get in your car and you can't even turn the car key? Everything seems stuck. There's an easy way out of this jam, and it won't cost you a thing. You won't break your car key in half, either.

What is the Shelf Life of Radiator Coolant or Antifreeze?
If you've been wondering what the shelf life of car radiator coolant is, you've come to the right place. Your radiator isn't too picky, it seems.

Removing A Seriously Stuck Wheel
Whether you're doing routine maintenance or changing a flat, nothing's worse than a wheel that won't come off. It can be corrosion, gunk, goop or just general tightness, but none of these things can keep your wheel on with this handy trick.

The Universal Cup Holder!
The search for a proper cup holder is never ending. Some are blessed with a factory holder that can actually hold a 20-ounce bottle of Orange Faygo without turning your car into an Insane Clown Posse show. Others of us are not so lucky, and thus begins the search. Mine has been going on for years, but I have finally found the truth.

The Unbelievable Chrome Shiner
Ever wonder what magical product the real guys are using to keep the chrome on their cars and motorcycles so shiny? We have the answer, and it's not a genie. It's not even in a bottle!

Find the Leak In Your Tire
If you have a slow tire leak, it can be very frustrating. Constant trips to the air pump are no fun, not to mention it's costing you 50 cents every time you have to top off the pressure. Before you plug your tire you need to find the leak or the puncture. Here's a trick.

Clear Your Air (Vents)
There are a number of reasons to keep your fresh air vents clean. Take a minute to brush away the season's droppings and you'll thank yourself in the long run.

Diagnose Automatic Transmission Problems

There are a few words in the language of auto repair that make car owners want to crawl back into bed, and "transmission" is at the top of the list. There's something about that mysterious box underneath your car that incites fear. Unfortunately, most repair shops know this, and will take advantage of the situation by reaching deep into your pocket. Before you hand over your keys and a blank check, brush up on the simple end of automatic transmissions. If something is seriously wrong, at least you'll be armed with enough knowledge to avoid being overcharged, over-repaired or straight ripped off. Sometimes it's easy to diagnose automatic transmission problems.

Your transmission is a remarkable contraption. Somehow it can shift your car from gear to gear, knowing how fast you need to go and how quickly you need to get there. What goes on inside is a mystery to most. Unless your thirst for automotive knowledge borders on compulsive, you can leave it a mystery. The basics will be enough to have an intelligent (which translates to "not about to be ripped off") conversation with your mechanic.

Basic Parts of a Transmission
While there are many, many little parts inside, your transmission is essentially made up of a few key parts of systems.

• Bell Housing: This is the cone shaped metal case that you can see when you peek underneath your car. If you have a front-wheel-drive car it's stuck on the side of the engine under the hood. If your car is rear-wheel-drive, the tranmission will be mounted underneath the car behind the engine.

• Gears: Even though you're not shifting them, an automatic transmission has gears. They are broken into main gears and planetary gears. You need all of these to be able to drive.

• Fluid: Transmission fluid is very important to an automatic transmission. All of the magic happens in the fluid. Most cars come with red transmission fluid, good to know if you are looking for a leak.

• Filter: All of that fluid has to be clean for your car to shift gears at the right time. To keep things fresh, your transmission has a filter to catch any gunk.

Now that you know a little about what's happening in there, you can try to figure out why your transmission is acting up, or at least understand what your mechanic is talking about while he tries to make your bill into his new fishing boat.

Transmission problems fall into two very similar categories:

• Won't go.
• Won't go smoothly

These two groups of problems are caused by the same faults in your transmission, so whichever your car is doing, the following applies.

Is your fluid level correct?
It's important to check your transmission fluid at least twice a year. Not only can a low fluid level cause your car to shift poorly, it can eventually lead to transmission damage, and a costly repair. If your car seems to be losing fluid on a regular basis, you may have a leak.

Is your transmission leaking?
Checking for leaks isn't as trying as it may seem. The transmission is a closed system, so there are only a few places that can spring a leak. Unless it's been changed to a non-dyed fluid, your car will have red transmission fluid. Here are a few places to check for leaks:

• At the filler tube base.
• At the drain hole underneath the transmission.
• Between the transmission and the engine.
• At the selector shaft - the rod that connects your gear shift to the transmission.
• Speed sensor mounting point. This will either be your cable screwing into the transmission housing or an electronic sensor bolted to the housing.
• The radiator. If your car has a transmission cooler, it's possible that a leak will cause transmission fluid to leak into the radiator fluid. They don't mix well, so you'll see it floating around in there.

Is your filter clogged?
Your transmission's filer is vital to its performance. If you haven't replaced your filter in a while (or ever for a lot of us), be sure to do this before you start talking about rebuilds or replacements.

Most transmission problems can't be fixed by the average do-it-yourselfer. There are just too many specialized tools and pieces of equipment you'll need, and buying this expensive gear just to screw up your first three tries at fixing the thing just doesn't make too much sense.

Now that you're in front of the firing squad, it's time to drop some knowledge on your fix-it guy. Tell him what the car's doing. Then tell him what you found out when you inspected the transmission. If there's a leak, let him know where and how much is leaking.

Time for a rebuild?
When your transmission gets tired enough, you'll have to have it rebuilt. It's true. For some makes and models of car, it's true a little too often, but that's neither here nor there. The important thing is checking any other possible causes to your problem before you take the transmission apart, which is very expensive. If you haven't replaced your filter yet, do it! This fixes a nice percentage of transmission problems. If your filter is good, and nothing simple is out of adjustment, be prepared to drop some serious dough on the rebuild. The good news is that most shops warrantee a transmission rebuild for a nice amount of time. A small consolation as your handing over the credit card, but at least you know that it will get fixed and stay fixed.

89 How should I take care of my car's exterior? What products to use?

A: Wash on a regular basis. First, hose down car, don't aim at locks, gas cap,
etc. Also hose down the radiator & underside of the car.
Use one of the available car wash products in a bucket & sponge down car.
(All this to be done in the shade).
I have tried several types of shampoo, like the RainDance, dislike the
Meguire's shampoo, others like Blue Coral. Other suggestions are welcome.
Rinse sponge often to avoid scratching the paint. Generally work from
cleanest areas (roof) to dirtiest (front sides) of car.
Avoid rubbing too hard as you may scratch the surface.
Keep car wet (on a dry day in CA, the car dries almost instantly leaving
water marks).
Hose down soap, and with a fresh bucket of water and a chamois or a
synthetic chamois, dry car.
Again, rinse the rag as often as you can.

Wax at least twice a year, with a good brand of wax. Wax only after the car
has been thoroughly washed. Follow the directions of the product and either
use clean rags or cotton wool to apply wax.
Why wax? It puts a protective layer over your paint, and replenishes lost
oils.
Hard waxes (e.g., Carnuba based waxes) tend to last longer but require a
lot of work.
[Note: Latest word on this is that these waxes contain
hardly any Carnuba any more]
See what the local body shop uses (the one I visit use Meguire's
professional line of products, but it's by no means the only wax. I like it
as well (Hi Tech Yellow Wax #26), used to use RainDance wax but stopped
because it is rumored to be too abrasive, hated Nu-Finish.
The ultimate is Zymol, 800-999-5563, but it costs a lot! Others have
had good results with Mother's.)
Wax horizontal surfaces more frequently (hood, roof).
If rain does not bead up and slide off the car, it's time to rewax.
Polish your car sparingly, e.g., if you want to get rid of swirls,
scratches or an oxidized layer of paint.
Polishes contain fine grit and therefore are rather abrasive.
You can get polishes with different grades of grit #2, e.g., see Meguire's
line of polishers: Swirl Remover #9 (to be used last),
Fine Cut Cleaner #2 (leaves a dull finish, removes small scratches), etc.
The coarsest version of a polish is a rubbing compound.
It will not leave a shine, and works just like a piece of sand paper.
It is mainly used to even out portions that were repainted.
Note that you can buy 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper which in some
cases is actually finer than some rubbing compounds.
They may come in handy when you are trying to smooth a repainted scratch.

Note that many "waxes" contain both detergents and polishing compounds.
Some work quite well (e.g., DuPont's Rain Dance) but some find it too
abrasive for frequent use. That's why it's better to use non-abrasive
waxes, and only polish when you need it.

Glazing compounds are a bit like wax:
they replenish lost chemicals in the paint, but the protective layer they
provide does not last very long (e.g., Meguire's Show Car Glaze #7).
For a deep shine I often first use a glaze then
a carnuba wax. I have tried some of the supposed once a year hi-tech
"coverings" but was rather underwhelmed by the result.

To get the wax off the black trim, use some detergent or Simple Green & a
toothbrush. Then apply a vinyl/rubber conditioner on all
rubber components. It'll slow the ageing process a bit and restore
the color of the component (see below for product listing).

To get the rims clean is a different matter, especially the alloy rims.
VW's product is supposedly quite good, I would avoid most others as they
contain extremely caustic (i.e., HF) acids. I haven't found the "best"
formula as yet... I use Simple Green, dishwashing detergent and some
polishing compound.
To make your life easier, wax your rims. It'll also reduce pitting (which
is caused by a galvanic action between the hot brake metal particles and
your alloy). BTW, BBS rims are nice but a chore to clean.
On the tires use one of the rubber/vinyl conditioner or one of
products made specifically made for tires. They are usually sold in cans
(Tire Shine), but I find it hard not to overspray all over the place (&
that stuff leaves marks on the floor).

To get windows real clean, wash with a strong detergent, perhaps followed
by some alcohol. Then use Windex or similar product and dry most with
rag/chamois and follow with a piece of newspaper paper. Works amazingly
well.
A product like Rain-X also cleans the windows real well as a side effect.
Some have complained that Rain-X leaves a hazy film (can be buffed out with
a *very* clean rag). Rain-X ("invisible windshield wipers") work quite well
on some windshields but only last a couple 1000 kms, or about a month
and a half.

Inside the car I just use some light detergent and water to clean
things. For the vinyl dash and other vinyl interior components I now
use (again) Meguire's #40 spray. It's similar in function to products
like Clear Guard and Armor All except it's not so greasy, slippery
and smells better.
Carpets and seats you just vacuum. It's not a bad idea to treat cloth
seats and carpets with protective products like Scotch Guard.
This is easy to do yourself and often sold at an enormous cost with
new cars.

Brake Rotors

Cross drilled vs. slotted ,which type of rotor is better? Your driving habits are the most important factor in the choice between cross-drilled vs. slotted. For a customer who likes the appearance of cross-drilled and is not abusive on the brakes or seldom carries heavy loads or tows, Pro Stop drilled can fulfill your needs, recommends that hawk Performance hps brake pads be used with pro stop drilled rotors.

Slotted Rotors
Excessive heat can cause resins in your brake pad to vaporize or "outgas." As the brake pad wears, the used friction material turns into a fine dust. This boundary layer of heat, gas and dust builds up between the pad and rotor surfaces and inhibits performance. Here's where Power Slot's slotted brake rotors make a big difference. Power Slot's exclusive Vac-U-Slots are machined into the rotor and help evacuate gasses and dust, shed heat, and keep the brake pad surface clean. And in wet, raining conditions, our Vac-U-Slot helps push water off the braking surface for better stopping power. The Vac-U-Slot also serves as a visual wear indicator. The slot is machined to the rotor’s minimum thickness where it crosses the outside edge. If you cannot see the slot along the outside edge, the rotor has worn down to its discard depth. A combination of Hawk® high performance brake pads and Power Slot
slotted rotors will deliver superior, reliable braking for virtually all automotive, truck and SUV applications, even under hard driving and severe duty conditions. But for our most demanding customers such as police pursuit vehicles and club racers, we also suggest Power Slot Cryo rotors.